Cycling through the untamed landscapes of Sutherland, Scotland, is an adventure like no other. It's a journey that takes you off the beaten path, away from the bustling North Coast 500, and into the heart of nature's wild beauty. This article explores the allure of these forgotten highways and byways, where the only company you'll encounter is the wind, the wildlife, and the ancient history that surrounds you.
A Journey to the Edge of the World
The story begins in Lairg, a quaint settlement nestled in the north of Scotland. Here, the author and their friend Ben embark on a two-wheel odyssey, leaving behind the comforts of civilization. Their destination: the rugged wilderness of Sutherland, a land once ruled by the Vikings and now a haven for nature enthusiasts.
As they venture west, the road leads them to Glen Cassley, a seemingly ordinary lane that transforms into a magical experience. A service road for a dam and generator takes them to Loch Shin, where they encounter the Bealach nam Meirleach, or Thief's Pass. This old drovers' road, made possible by Scotland's enlightened access laws, offers a thrilling 8-mile ride through remote hill country, surrounded by breathtaking lochs and cliffs.
Continuing their journey, they find themselves in Strathmore, a place that was once the site of the notorious Sutherland clearances. Here, they witness the legacy of the past, with the emptiness of the land a stark reminder of the evictions that took place. The author reflects on the contrast between the wild beauty and the dark history, a theme that resonates throughout their journey.
A Lane of Romance and Adventure
The road from Strathmore to Altnaharra is a narrow passage that captivates the author. The very name of the hamlet exudes romance, and the weather station's record-breaking cold temperatures add to the allure. They encounter a small hotel, a former drovers' inn, and imagine the long, dark winters that the locals endure. The lush greenery and the sun-filled sky create a stark contrast, highlighting the beauty of the region.
As they travel downstream, they come across a three-arch stone bridge built by Thomas Telford, a testament to the region's history. The road takes them to the coast, where they reach the village of Tongue. Here, they witness the power of nature as a sea eagle glides overhead, a symbol of the wild and untamed beauty that surrounds them.
Lost Lanes and the Cost of Progress
The journey continues across the Moine, a seemingly impassable morass of blanket bog. The author reflects on the contrast between the wild beauty and the cost of progress, as they encounter the A838, a fast and wide road that forms part of the North Coast 500. They stumble upon fragments of the original road, now abandoned, a reminder of the changing landscape.
In the northern tip of Loch Hope, they discover Hope Lodge, a luxurious hotel owned by Danish billionaire Anders Holch Povlsen. The author ponders the paradoxical nature of Povlsen's fortune, made from fast fashion, and his commitment to nature conservation. The journey becomes a reflection on the complexities of human impact on the environment.
The Beauty of Solitude
The final stretch of the journey takes them along a narrow lane along the shore of Loch Hope. They discover a hidden gem, a lane with a thick sward of grass, winding through heather and bog myrtle. The author finds solace in the solitude, with only two farmsteads in sight. The emptiness of places like Strathmore becomes a symbol of the region's rich history and the resilience of nature.
As they return to the crossroads at Altnaharra, they realize that their three-day tour has covered 130 miles. They have ventured off the beaten path, avoiding the North Coast 500, and discovered the true essence of cycling in Scotland. The author concludes that this journey is about embracing the wild, the forgotten, and the untamed, a reminder that sometimes the most rewarding paths are the ones less traveled.
In the end, the author's book, 'Lost Lanes Scotland,' becomes a testament to the power of exploration and the beauty of the unknown. It invites readers to embark on their own journeys, to discover the hidden gems of Scotland, and to appreciate the wild landscapes that make this country so captivating.
